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Welcome to Back of the Napkin, musings from Serviette for the cultured world. What if fragrance were not merely adjacent to fashion? For much of its history, the relationship between scent and dress has been like Peggy Olson to Don Draper—doing the work, rarely getting the credit. To Christian Dior, perfume was the “invisible extra”; to Coco Chanel, the “ultimate accessory,” one that “heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure.” Always the entry level product, never the, erm, Chanel bride.
Clothing announced itself visually, while fragrance worked to support an impression rather than declaring one—a ghostwriter for personal style. But with interest in fragrance continuing to skyrocket while luxury fashion, as it is made and sold, appears to crater, it seems as though the olfactory is now boldly making itself seen.
Dedicated readers may recall our earlier fascination with the storied history of perfume pendants. It seems history repeats itself with perfume jewelry, updated for the modern sensibility. Rather than a pomander, why not let a perfume sample swing gently around your neck, ringed by a delicate collar of lace? Indecision might take the form of two fragrances at the wrist. The more ambitious can even wear a full chainmail dress composed of sample vials. Feels very McQueen, non? As we head deeper into this new era of fragrance, we hope to see even more sartorial developments spurred by scent.
To Serviette, fragrance’s ongoing integration into the world of fashion is both exciting and necessary. Lovers of perfume have long been aware of scent’s ability to truly complete an outfit, acting as a sort of spiritual armor to ready oneself for the day ahead. But never has there been such an effort to create a visual basis for this notion, a means of literally displaying one’s olfactory tastes to the world via one’s eclectic wardrobe.
Interestingly, it seems the inverse relationship also exists: fashion and its terminology has also often been filtered through the language of perfume, representing the visual and the tactile through invisible means. Perhaps you’ve seen a fragrance with a “worn leather jacket” or even a “leopard print” note recently, or smelled something with a “silk” accord. There is an ever growing symbiosis between fashion and the olfactory, a desire to perpetually dissolve or represent one within the other.
Serviette is overwhelmingly on board with this symbiosis—to any designers who may be reading this, we welcome and encourage any design efforts to further integrate Serviette into your OOTD. Or scent your NYFW show.