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Research is constantly on the mind of Jonathan Anderson, who was announced as the designer for Dior Homme. The last collection, shown by outgoing creative director Kim Jones, received the documentary treatment by Loïc Prigent. Jones used blindfolds to cover the eyes of the boys walking the show, inspired by none other than René Gruau.
The illustrator created an image of a woman blindfolded as an advertisement for Dior’s “Rouge Baiser” lipstick in 1949. It’s sultry, mysterious, and an ideal way to use fabric to ensure an unyielding focus on sensations. What happens when sight—the sense fashion relies on most—is deliberately withheld?
The gesture feels particularly apt from a fragrance perspective. Perfume is experienced invisibly, yet the fashion world has spent decades constructing images around it. A blindfold reverses that logic: instead of using an image to suggest a sensation, it removes the image and lets sensation take over.
That tension between what can be seen and what must be felt is one Serviette returns to often. Sometimes withholding the obvious is precisely what makes an idea linger.