An end-of-year syllabus

Welcome to Back of the Napkin, musings from Serviette for the cultured world. Serviette’s Byronic Hero was recently named “Best Niche Perfume” by Coveteur, much to our delight.

In ancient Rome, it was de rigueur for every esteemed social circle to appoint an “arbiter elegantiae” (literally, a “judge of elegance”) charged with presiding over matters of taste, culture, and social conduct. A sobering reminder that taste has always been a communal sport. Think for a moment about the sources that quietly inform your preferences. Of course, Serviette knows that taste is, yes, social—but also stubbornly, deliciously personal. As the year comes to a close, we thought it appropriate to provide an end-of-year “syllabus” of sorts—not to prescribe, but rather to inspire and expand your personal taste. Think of this as our version of a cultural roundup.

H. D. Everett’s One or Two: Mandylion Press has mastered the art of literary resurrection, churning out stunning editions of previously forgotten or undiscovered Victorian-era novels. One or Two might just be the most spectacularly odd of the bunch; think Coralie Fargeat’s The Substance recalibrated for the 1900s reader. It’s a shockingly relevant tale of identity, self-alienation, and vanity—one whose tongue remains firmly in cheek as its main character undergoes a “slenderizing séance.” A perfect read for those whose tastes, like Everett’s, remain inconveniently ahead of their time. As an added bonus, Serviette also recommends Mandylion’s “1-800-1800” podcast, a playful exploration of Victorian society with modern references fit for any bona fide cultural zealot.

Morgan Vogel’s Gatekept: The writer who posts to Substack, Morgan Vogel, is a firm believer that taste is a muscle you build up over time—one that doesn’t come from scrolling or algorithms. Vogel rounds out each Gatekept post with a mini-syllabus of her own, providing readers with entry points to dive deeper into the subjects that capture their attention. Serviette particularly recommends her post titled “Too Much and Not Enough: Strategies for Seeing”, which illustrates how the act of noticing is its own form of intellect. A perfect encapsulation of Serviette’s own ethos.

Intelligencer’s “Do media organizations even want cultural criticism?”: With Serviette’s ongoing interest in examining the forces that shape (and occasionally flatten) our culture, it’s no surprise that Charlotte Klein’s article on the apparent shift away from cultural critics found a spot on our list. What happens when criticism is decentralized? And is the cultural critic as we know it becoming extinct? Klein’s essay thoughtfully considers the evolving role of the critic today, reflecting Serviette’s awareness of the way in which notions of taste, as well as its contributors, are constantly in flux.

Vulture’s “How I’m Fixing My Broken Attention Span”: A necessary inclusion in the age of the Instagram Reel. Rebecca Jennings takes a fascinating look at efforts, both communal and individual, to rebuild our eroding attention spans within a relentlessly digital landscape. Her piece is a reminder that friction is not a flaw, but a feature—whether that means watching a nearly four-hour film without checking your phone, or allowing yourself the slow burn of a fragrance revealing itself over time.

We thank you for the opportunity to play “arbiter elegantiae” for a day. We hope this week’s newsletter inspires you to go forth and dive headfirst into your next obsession.